Talk:Valve Adjustment/@comment-91.125.61.213-20170114203339

Warning - the cam holder torx bolts can shear possibly from overtightening or even the heat cycling of the engine. Make absolutely sure that every bolt has been disturbed and retightened with oil BEFORE attempting to release the last one. If you proceed to loosen them in your favoured sequence and leave one last bolt undisturbed you will likely sheer it and you will definately find the torque is much higher than the recommended 10NM. - this would require removal of the head and all that ensues to have it sent away for removal (cheap operation in itself but the head removal does incur quite a bit of expense and time)

The method above shows the cam removal method - there is also a special tool (not as good as the suzuki tool - which (good quality one) might be used if cut and re-angled) from Triumph - this is fixed to the center thread on the cam holder and is also capable of stripping the thread requiring helicoiling or retapping (CANNOT BE DONE ON THE BIKE). The idea above to replace the torx with hex head bolts is an excellent long term investment.

The timing mark is the T1 mark NOT the adjacent lobe and ensure you put the cam chain on the bottom first and then the exhaust and then the inlet. Use a cable tie if you have to. Ensure the cam lobe marks are absolutely level or you are a 1/2 tooth out at the bottom (it will still run). Check the tensioner spring and replace with the better spring from Sprint Manufacturing. (the triumph spring is out of spec from day two) as this will quieten the engine considerably. If you forget any loose bolts whatsover you will put the head of your engine in jeopardy.